Gardening on Cloud 9 » How To

Zinnia Elegans: Collecting and Saving Seeds

Sandy — Thu, 03 Dec 2009 13:56:26 +0000

Zinnia Elegans is a gorgeous choice for gardens. Zinnia comes in a wide variety of colors, and its large, bright blooms really give a garden a sense of cheer. There are even varieties of zinnia that are as jumbo as three feet in height! Moreover, Zinnia Elegans can easily be grown from seeds. All these factors make Zinnia a very popular flower in gardens.

Collecting seeds of Zinnia Elegans is fairly easy. As the blooms fade, air dry the flowers by hanging them upside down.

(Left: Zinnia seeds that are not yet ripened Right: ripe Zinnia seeds)

Seeds of Zinnia Elegans develop on the end of the petals. So, all we have to do is pull apart the Zinnia flower petals and check to see if any of them house a seed. Do not pull the heads too early. Else, the bees and other pollinators may not have had the chance to do their work, and the seed won’t be ready.

At the insertion point of each petal is a pointed tip, like an arrowhead. This is the seed. To be ripe, it should have darkened to a dusty brown or gray shade. White seeds are not yet ripe and should not be collected.

For storage, put the seeds collected in a paper bag. Paper bag will absorb any excess moisture as the seeds overwinter. It will be even better if we put the paper bag in a plastic bag for extra insurance. The goal is to store them in a cool, dry place through the winter.

Depending on the variety, each Zinnia flower can have dozens to hundreds of seeds. Once the seeds are collected from the heads and seperated from the petals, we can use the petals for potpourri or filler for a craft project

Grow Your Own Drugs

Sandy — Thu, 26 Nov 2009 13:25:32 +0000

Last night Yik called and told me that there was a program showing on TVB Pearl that might be of my interest. So I turned on the tv and watched the program, and yes, it surely is my cup of tea.

This program is called Grow Your Own Drugs, a six-part series presented by James Wong, an ethnobotanist trained in Kew Garden. James shows us how we can make simple, natural remedies to help ease the symptoms of some everyday ailments with plants which can be found in our gardens or flower shops. In the program, James shares some amazing recipes, from Marigold lotion for motorizing skin and clearing acnes, to Viola eczema cream and Elderflower lozenge.

It is one fun program to watch. It reminds me that plants are just ornamental accessories to brighten up our gardens and window boxes, but the key ingredients for some simple natural remedies and beauty treatments as well. The more I watch, the more I want to learn from this scientist + gardener.

And sorry to those who have got attracted by this catchy title and are expecting to read more about growing weed. Haha

Transplanting a Tree

Sandy — Thu, 03 Sep 2009 14:50:44 +0000

In the gardening class which I took last weekend, I have learned how to transplant a tree. While I have never thought that transplanting a tree is an easy task, I wouldn’t expect that it could be quite difficult either (especially on a hot summer day). And here, I would like to share some key points of tree transplanting.

Root pruning can greatly increase the chances of successful transplanting, especially for big trees. We should prune the roots 3 months – 2 years in advance. By severing the roots at or just beyond the drip line of the tree to be moved, the long unbranched roots will be broken. This will prompt growth of new roots near the main trunk, compact the existing root system, and increase the tree’s chances of survival once it is moved.

In addition, when transplanting the tree, the soil shouldn’t be too dry or too wet. If the soil is dry, water the tree 3 days in advance (we need to give our tree some time to drink the water too). On the other hand, if the soil is too wet, we can either wait for a few days till the soil gets drier, or dig a trench and drain out the excess water.

The diameter of the rootball should be 4-8 times the diameter of the tree trunk. While we dig and form the rootball, we probably have to cut through some long roots. Make a nice, clean cut with a sharp shovel or pruning shears.

And since we have cut off so many roots from the tree, we need to trim off 1/2 – 2/3 of its leaves and branches in order to reduce the amount of water evaporates and escapes from its foliage.

Set the plant and its ball of soil on a piece of burlap, wrap the burlap around the soil to keep it from crumbling. Moreover,we should get extra help when we move the tree. Even small shrubs are heavy. We don’t want to drop and crack the rootball when we are moving the tree to its new home.

It is preferred have the new hole ready before we dig up our tree or shrub. The width of the new hole should be twice that of the rootball. The depth should be 20 cm deeper.

When we reach the bottom of the new hole,do not break up the soil beneath, but keep a flat, solid surface instead. Instead of allowing the roots to penetrate deeper into the ground, breaking up the soil may cause the tree to sink, inviting rot.

Gently slide the tree into the hole, and get it straight. Take away the burlap, shovel the excavated soil back into the hole, and tamp the soil down firmly.

For trees taller than 6 feet high, they won’t initially have the strength to support themselves right being planted and will need to be staked to get off to a good start. Staking will help control the movement of the tree, while allowing its roots to grow and develop strong enough to hold the tree.

Although I often see trees get fastened with supporting stakes at 1/2, or even as low as 1/3, of its height up from the ground, my teacher suggests us to tie the supporting stakes at 2/3 of the tree’s height for strong support.

And last but not least, water, water, water! Water the tree thoroughly.

Propagate Flame Violet by Cutting

Sandy — Tue, 14 Jul 2009 16:08:42 +0000

I bought a pot of Episcia (aka Flame Violet) seedling in October last year. Since then, it has been growing beautifully in my room, with its first flower blooming in April.

Thru some research, I have learned that Flame Violet can be propagated by stolon cuttings. This is my first time growing Flame Violet. Everything to me is new and interesting. And surely, I would like to try stolon propagation. While I was wondering when I should cut the stolons of my Flame Violet for my experiment, my dear brother accidently cut off two stolons from the plant with the rotor blades of his newly bought remote control helicopter. Ok. That’s great! At least I was saved from thinking too much more before taking any action.

I removed all the leaves that seemed too big, and planted each stolon in a 2” pot.

For the first two months, I had kept waiting and waiting, and the two Flame Violet stolons showed little sign of growth. While I was wondering if I should give up on them, I found a tiny pair of leaves growing from the center of both baby plants! Yeah!

I have an impression that my two Flame Violet stolons have taken longer than normal to develop their root systems and grow their first leaves. I wonder why. Was it not the right season for propagating Flame Violet? Or did I leave too few leaves on the stolons for the plants to grow and develop their roots quickly? For some of the leaves, maybe instead of cutting the whole piece, I should cut only half of the piece, so for the plants to absorb more sun and moist in the air.

But anyways, my baby FlameViolets are growing strong and healthy now!

You can check out this post for more detailed instructions on how to propagate plant by cutting.

African Violet Care – How to Separate Crowns

Sandy — Thu, 09 Jul 2009 16:03:12 +0000

I bought my first pot of African violet a few months ago. While the newly acquired African violet is blossoming beautifully, I didn’t aware but only until another gardener pointed out to me that my African violet actually had multiple crowns.

As a curious gardening novice who like to try different things, I decided to take up this challenge and separate the crowns. It has been almost three months since I separated the crowns. Seeing that the separated crowns of my African violets are now growing healthily, I consider this “operation” as a successful one. And here, let me share with you how I did it.

This was my African violet three months ago. As you can see, the plant was very messy, jam-packed with its leaves shooting to all directions.

First, I allowed my African violet to dry slightly so the compost was loose and the leaves were rubbery. This helps preventing the roots and leaves from breaking easily when one tries to separate the crowns.

I picked out all the unhealthy leaves from the plant. You can also do this after removing the plant from its pot.

Then I removed the plant from its pot, shook away any excess compost and exposed the root ball.

After some careful examination, I found two distinct root systems. With a clean sharp knife, I cut between the root systems. I feel like a doctor doing a surgery.

Since there were existing roots on the crowns, both of them could be placed directly into fresh compost. If the crown is an offshoot without its own root system, then it is better to first be placed in water to permit root development.

The two African violets, which I have separated there months ago, are growing strong and healthily now.

My First Moss Graffiti

Sandy — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 14:02:36 +0000

After days of preparation (researching on moss graffiti, collecting necessary ingredients and tools, thinking up a cool graffiti design, etc), I have finally made my first few moss graffiti with some moss slurry.

Thru some research, I have learned that while certain moss can grow only on soil, some others can grow only on hard surfaces. Since I am making moss graffiti on wood, it is wise to get moss from a hard surface as well. In this case, I have chosen the moss that grows on a slanted wall outside my apartment complex (I actually didn’t notice that there is moss growing on the slant until now… ).

For more or less, I followed the moss slurry recipe posted in Heavy Petal (thanks to the Modern Gardener for giving me the moss slurry recipe link). I used plain yogurt and beer instead of buttermilk and water. And I used less than 2 cups of each for a thick mixture, so to have the mixture stay on the wood in a shape that I have especially designed for my graffiti.

As an experience, I have made 3 moss graffiti with 3 types of moss mixture. For the first one, I just put a thick layer of the moss slurry on top of the wood. For the second one, I added a layer of ceramic clay on the wood before putting the moss slurry. For the third one, I put a thick layer of moss slurry that was made with moss that grows in soil.

I dipped a few of my miniaturize furniture into the leftover moss slurry. Then, I poured all the rest into a container.

I have placed my moss graffiti in a shady area on my balcony.

So, let’s see what will happen! Can’t wait!

I Want Some Moss!

Sandy — Fri, 12 Jun 2009 16:28:42 +0000

I have been interested in making a moss garden since the very first day I started making tabletop gardens. With the decoration of a few stones, sticks, and a small plant or two placed on top of a carpet of moss, I can imagine myself creating a fun, modern version of a bonsai garden.

I have had this fun idea in mind for so long. Yet, I couldn’t kick start the project for I wasn’t able to find the number one essential ingredient of this garden – the moss.

So, last weekend, with the suggestion of my bonsai class instructor, I took the train to Tai Po, and along the Lam Tsuen River at somewhere near the Tai Po Waterfront Park, I dug out some moss

Yes, I know this is bad. I shouldn’t dig in an area of public property. Even though I was digging in a place where moss growth was probably undesired, nevertheless, I am guilty as charged. But trust me, this is my last resort. For months, I have been trying to find a shop that has mosses for sale. But only that I couldn’t find any. Apparently, the gardening stores and flower shops in Hong Kong don’t sell mosses.

Since mosses love damp, shady area, I put my mosses under the small table in my balcony, and spray water on them every once a while.

Comparing the photos I took on Day 1 and Day 6, the difference is minimal. Now, I am wondering how long it will take the moss to grow into beautiful emerald green.

Drilling Drainage Holes by Ourselves

Sandy — Mon, 18 May 2009 16:40:38 +0000

We know that good drainage is the key to healthy plants, but the containers that we find most attractive are often the ones without drainage holes. But we can drill the drainage holes by ourselves, and it is much easier than what most of us would expect. All we need is an electric drill and steady hands.

And here, let me show you how to drill holes on our containers.

Place a Wet Cloth on a Hard Level Surface

While some would suggest you to place a thick piece of cardboard between the hard level surface and the container, I would recommend a piece of wet cloth instead. The wet cloth can keep your pot from sliding.

Turn your pot upside down and place it on the wet cloth.

Mark Your Targets

Use a nail to make a little ding at where you want to drill the hole to prevent the bit from slipping and nicking the pot when you are drilling the hole. While it is relatively easy to make a ding on pots that are made of terra-cotta, wood, metal, and such, it is more difficult to do the same on ceramic or glass pot. In this case, I would just mark the target with a marker.

Choose the Right Drill Bit

It is very important to choose the right drill bit for you will likely to crack your pot if you use a wrong one. For glass and ceramic pots, I use the drill bit that is shown in the photo above. I don’t know what it is called or if it is especially designed for glass and ceramic, but it works wonders with my glass and ceramic pots.

Drill the Hole

Place the bit into the nick you have made. Make sure the drill bit is straight up and down. Press down lightly on the drill and then drill through the container in a steady motion. To prevent your drill bit from slipping around, you can first drill a shallow “lead hole” with a smaller drill bit, then, drill all the way through with the bigger one.

For Ceramic/Glass Pots – Add Water

Ceramic and glass pots are relatively easy to crack. To prevent this from happening, we must sprinkle the area where we are drilling with cold water, so to keep the temperature down. In addition, instead of drilling through the container in one single motion, I would suggest you to break it up into several times, so to keep the spot from getting too hot and cracking.

So this is how I drill drainage holes on my containers. Give it a try. It is probably easier that what you think. And once you have mastered the skills, you will have so many more options for your garden containers!

How to Make Container Garden – Money Bowl

Sandy — Fri, 08 May 2009 01:57:03 +0000

We know that good drainage is the key to healthy plants, but the containers that we find most attractive are often the ones without drainage holes. So, to broaden my choices of containers, I decided to go ahead and try to drill drainage holes in the containers by myself.

Because this was my first time drilling drainage holes, I chose a wooden Japanese bowl as my container for I knew that it would be much easier to drill holes on wood than on glass. And as expected, this was so easy.

Drill the Holes

In order to hang my container garden, besides the drainage holes, I have also made three evenly spaced holes around the rim of the container. Make sure the holes are large enough to accommodate the size of the rope that will be used to hang the garden.

Pilea peperomioides is one of those plants that grow well in water (check out this post – Suitable Plants for Crystal Soil and Hydroculture for a list of other plants that grow well in water). So, if you are growing the plants in water, you don’t need to make any drainage hole.

Pot the Pilea Peperomioides

I put a piece of landscape fabric at the bottom of the bowl to keep the soil from washing through the drainage holes. Then I repotted the pilea peperomioides into its new container. For better adaptation, I always keep some of the soil that is around the roots of the plant when I repot my plants.

Hang with Ropes & S Hooks

I simply tied a rope at each of the three holes and tied all three ropes together at the top. Then, with the S-hook that I made by using plier and some wire I found at home, I hanged my container garden – Money Bowl on the window guard of my room. And if you don’t want to make your own S-hook, you can find them available in different sizes in most hardware stores.

Plant Propagation from Cuttings – Coleus

Sandy — Mon, 04 May 2009 08:00:09 +0000

It is quite easy to do cutting propagation for coleus. Last month, I took four cuttings from my coleuses, and three of them have survived. I guess this wasn’t too bad for someone who propagated plant from cutting for the first time, and I have already started propagating my second batch of coleus cuttings a few days ago.

So here, let me show you how I do cutting propagation with my coleus.

Step 1 Collect Coleus Cuttings

Choose coleus plants that are healthy and disease free. Then, with a cleaned razor blade (you can clean your razor blade with rubbing alcohol), take the cuttings from the stem tip such that the cuttings are approximately 3-4 inches long.

Step 2 Prepare the Cuttings

Remove any flower stalks, as flower stalks can take energy away from the new plant and prevent new growth. Remove the leaves that arise from the bottom nodes and keep only the top 2-3 pairs of leaves. Then, with a cleaned razor blade, make a slanted cut at the bottom, leaving around 3 inches of the cutting.

Step 3 Prepare the Container

While any small, well-drained container will do, I would recommend you to use a plastic strainer basket as the container for coleus propagation. It is not only well-drained (no container has better drainage than a strainer ), but it also helps in aeration.

Step 4 Prepare the Medium

Any well drained medium should be fine. Ensure that the medium is free from disease and pest.

Step 5 Plant the Cuttings

Use a chopstick and make a hole in the medium. Stick the coleus cutting into the hole and gently press the surrounding medium. Plant the cuttings deep enough to not let the stem cutting fall off. If you have problem keeping the stem cuttings from falling, you can wet the medium first before planting in the cuttings. Wet medium can hold up the coleus cuttings better.

Step 6 Use Rooting Hormone

Rooting hormone speeds up the development of the root system a bit. There are many different types of rooting hormone. Some are in powder form, while others are concentrated solutions. Read the instructions clearly before use.

Step 7 Water the Coleus Cuttings

Water the plant medium till the medium is fully wet and water starts dripping from the drainage holes. If you use rooting hormone that is a concentrated solution, you can dissolve the hormone in water and use it to water the coleus cuttings now.

Step 8 Keep a Warm & Humid Growing Environment

Because Hong Kong is quite warm and humid in spring, I don’t put my coleus cuttings in a greenhouse. But if you are living in a colder or dryer place, you may need to keep your coleus cuttings in a clear plastic bag.

Once the root systems of the cuttings have developed, the coleus cuttings are ready for repotting into their individual pots. This usually takes around 2-3 weeks (I repotted mine after 16 days). In these 2-3 weeks, the plant medium must be kept moist. A greenhouse keeps the air warm and humid, so if you use a greenhouse, you may not need to water your cuttings in the coming 2-3 weeks of time before repotting them individually into bigger containers. But, nevertheless, you always keep an eye on them.

As for me, since I don’t use a greenhouse, I water my cuttings with rooting hormones solution whenever the medium gets dry to the touch.

Once we have repotted the new coleus plants, we must thoroughly water the planting medium till there is water dripping from the drainage holes.